Marzo
2002
THE AREA OF SARULE
Easy to reach if you
come from the SS 131 Abbasanta-Olbia, and drive either along the S. P. 17 Bolotana-Ottana-Sarule
or the SS 128, Sarule is a small centre of 2500 inhabitants at the foot of Mount
Gonare, situated in a mountainous area between Nuoro and Gennargentu. The old
main town of the "curatorìa" of the same name, an later "villa"
of the Dore family curatorìa, Sarule (in the Middle Age) was situated
just on the south border of Giudicato di Torres. During the Spanish domination
it became part of the Orani Marquisate.
The village is situated on a hill, along the paths that linked the church of
Our Lady del Rosario with the other churches situated on the outskirts. The
church was built, in a Baroque style, on the remains of the old parish church
"S. Nicola di Bari", dating from the XIII century and situated in
the centre of the built-up area. The fact that three destroyed churches existed,
devoted to S. Giorgio, Santa Marta and Santa Sofia, whose worship is of Byzantine
tradition, makes us think that Sarule 
was
founded long before the XI century.
There are even more churches in the built-up area: the parish church of San
Michele Archangelo, started in 1714 and finished one century later, with a beautiful
XVIII century wooden baptistery, frescoes, paintings and ornaments by the painter
De Gonare from Sarule; the church of Sant'Antonio da Padova with the polyptych
by De Gonare, and the church of S
anta
Croce with XVII century frescoes. As for the country churches, worth visiting
are the church devoted to S. Bernardino and the church of Our Lady of Gonare
(made of dark schist and surrounded by the "cumbessias", little houses
used by believers during the feast).
The village economy is mainly based on cattle-breeding, cheese and olive oil
production, agriculture. As regards wine production, its quality makes up for
the little quantity of wine produced. Typical dishes and cakes are made from
cheese: sas casadinas and sas sebadas. Sarule also produces the traditional
pane carasau.
Sarule is especially renowned for the craft production of bright coloured striped
carpets, rich in stylized pictures and made on a hand loom, a real boast for
women ever 
since
the old times. A typical product of weaving is sa burra, made of Sardinian sheep
woollen yarn. Most workshops are situated along Sarule's main street. One of
these is the Pilot Centre I.S.O.L.A. Other crafts are present such as the working
of wrought iron, marble, wood.
There is also much evidence of Ancient Sardinian civilization: the domus de
jana (fairy house) "Sa'e neale", not far from the western outskirts
of the village; an oven-shaped funerary cella dug out in granite rock, nuraghi
Iloe, Illudei, Badu 'e Orane; the giants' tombs of Ligula, Lorrocario, Lutha;
the domus de janas of Neunele and Sa Pranedda.
Among the most important treasures of Sarule, besides archaeological sites,
let us mention Mount Gonare, with the
famous sanctuary devoted to Our Lady of Gonare, one of the most famous in Sardinia.
The name "Gonare" reminds us the judge from Logudoro Gonario di Torres,
who ordered the sanctuary to be built on a preexistent pagan temple of the XIII
century. On 8th September, a great religious feast is celebrated, a really striking
one because of its sacred songs in Sard
inian
language ("gosos"). Traditionally, this feast is prepared on alternate
years by Sarule's and Orani's believers.
On top of Mount Gonare one can enjoy a vast and marvellous view: Nuoro in the
north-east, with the Oliena mountains on the right and, further away, the coast
of Orosei; the Gennargentu mountains in the south and the coast of Oristano
in the south-west; behind, the mounts of Marghine, and, north-west, the mounts
of Goceano; everywhere, numerous villages of Central Sardinia. All around, a
thick and flourishing vegetation of trees (holm-oaks, maples, durmasts) and
shrubs.
Among the old traditions of the village, let us mention the Holy Week rituals.
Particularly suggestive is "s'iscravamentu", on Holy Friday: a costume,
sacred representation with the "priori" of the village's "oratori"
dressed up as Judeans.
Worth a visit is also the house-museum "Giudice Ladu" and the dairy,
where most milk of the area is pasteurized.
The photos to colors are of Anthony Forma of Sarule all the other they are of the Commune.
GAVOI
TREKKING WITH A VIEW AROUND THE LAKE OF GUSANA
The
itinerary starts on the outskirts of Gavoi. Once we get over a rise of 300m,
we arrive at the 
summit
of Mount Loiloi, from which we can appreciate the splendid view of most northern-side
Gennargentu, the Supramonte of Orgosolo, Mount Gonare and the Lake of Gusana.
The itinerary goes on along the mountains' ridge, where you will see and watch
different kinds of flora samples (especially in spring) such as orchids (Ophyris
and Orchis), lavender and elicrysum; also, a few animal species such as weasels,
martens, buzzards and goshawks are to be found. Following the itinerary on the
mountain ridge, we will get to Monte Mannu, in the area of Lodine, where a large
nuraghic settlement was discovered. Once we have crossed a piece of private
land, we get to S'Iscritzola, where, during the Neolithic age, people
built a small necropolis of Domus de Janas (fairy houses) by digging out the
granite rock. Not far from that, a spectacular sample of a shelter in the rock
(used by cattle-stealers in recent times) is to be found. Then we cross a little
bridge call
ed
"Cerpil", in order to arrive to the opposite bank of the lake. Once
we have walked along a private 
road
and crossed a thick wood of holm-oaks, we get to Muros de Soro and the splendid
valley of Aratu, with the river of the same name, boundary line between Fonni
and Ovodda. The valley is full of archaeological sites of great historical interest.
After that, we go up again along a path which was beaten by woodcutters at the
beginning of the last century, until we get to the summit of mount S'Astore,
a breath-taking view! Here, the path is not traced out, so we are going to walk
along the narrow paths opened by animals. The itinerary ends up at the roadman's
house of S. Pietro, with jeeps waiting for us.
Level of Difficulty: average. Interest:
botanical, geological, faunal, archaeological. Duration:
one day. Clothes to be worn: comfortable.
Transfer: on foot from Gavoi, jeep or bus
to get back.
NB: the itinerary crosses several private roads or pieces of land, and
many gates and nettings are going to be opened and closed, so it is necessary
to inform the owners - watchdogs are often there!
Text and Photo (Lake of Gusana, Domus De Janas, Panorama Lake of Gusana, Valley
of Aratu and Nuraghe Talaihè)
of Paul Mulas
Barbagia No Limits - Gavoi
A CULTURAL OENOGASTRONOMIC ITINERARY IN GAVOI
The 
itinerary
goes along the narrow streets of the village. By walking across the old centre
of the village, with its pink and grey granite houses, 
old
flavours are going to be sought.
The first stop is
at a confectioner's shop which produces typical cakes from Barbagia and Gavoi,
and we will have the opportunity to taste some special typical ones. After that,
we are going to visit a small but well-kept wine cellar, and taste some local
and regional wines. The itinerary continues with a visit to an old storehouse
used for the maturing of Gavoi's typical cheese, the "Fiore Sardo",
a sought-after cheese, renowned in the national and international market as
a grated cheese. The special flavour of Gavoi's cheese is due to the working
process used, based on old craft techniques. A certain amount of whole sheep's
milk is heated at a temperature of 34° C, then ferments are added (naturally
developed using lambs' rennets). Once a kind of paste is formed, it is kneaded
and shaped in moulds, which give it the final look of a whole of cheese. After
that, it is pickled for about 40 hours, then it is smoked for a short time and
let it mature for 5-6 months. Once mature, if kept in a suitable place, the
Fiore Sardo can last several years.
The itinerary stops at a renowned restaurant so that we can taste Gavoi's typical
dishes: hors d'oeuvres such as cold meats and salami, pickles and cheese; first
courses such as "gnocchetti" in tomato and game meat sauce and "ravioli"
filled with fresh cheese; second courses such as pork, sheep meat and veal cooked
on wood fire and only seasoned with salt; cheese; cakes such as Sas Sebadas;
and of course, everything is accompanied by excellent red wine.
The tour can be adapted according to any special need, in fact you can choose
either a restaurant or a farm or a typical genuine country lunch.
Level of difficulty: easy. Interest:
cultural, oenogastronomical. Duration: one
day. Clothes to be worn: comfortable.
Text and Photo (Court of Gavoi and local Products)
of Paul Mulas Barbagia
No Limits - Gavoi
OLIENA
HOLY WEEK RITUALS
Oliena, a village situated in the province of Nuoro, was founded during the
nuraghic period and expanded a lot in the Middle Ages. In the XIV century, during
the Pisan domination, the church of Santa Maria was built, in whose square,
on Easter Day, the old ritual of S'Incontru is repeated. In Oliena, and many
other villages of the province, Holy Week celebrations start on Thursday, with
a procession meaningfully called sa chirka. Many people use to fast during the
week, some of them even confine themselves to bread and water. This fast is
called su giungiu de su trapassau: it is thought that all those who keep to
it will gain salvation. Introduced by the Spanish in 1400, the ritual of S'Incontru
is repeated every year, its expressive force unchanged. On Easter morning, the
statues of the Risen Christ and the Madonna, embellished with votive jewels,
are carried in procession by two different groups who walk along the winding
roads of the old centre, to meet in the crowded square of Santa Maria. Here,
one in front of the other, for three times, the statues bow down. When the black
mourning veil of the Madonna is taken off, the crowd rejoice and numerous villagers
fire blanks from their terraces. Now both the villagers, who wear marvellous
typical costumes (women's costumes are rich in silk, gold and silver threads;
men wear a cap and an orbace short skirt) and the many tourists present, accompany
the Mother and the Child up to the church of Sant'Ignazio, for Mass celebration.
Once the ceremony is finished, Sardinian dances start, and a variety of wines
and typical cakes are offered by the municipality. Other important events enliven
the cultural, religious and social life of Oliena: the Archaeological Cinema
Festival, at the end of June; the Patronal Feast of San Lussorio, 20th-24th
August; the Country Festival of Our Lady of Monserrat, 31st August-8th September;
"Cortes Apertas" (= open courtyards), in the second half of September. Though,
Oliena is not only faith: a visit to the surroundings of the village is not
to be missed, given the naturalistic/archaeological interest and the marvellous
and varied views they offer the visitor.
Photo of
Salvatore Mussone
FROM THE VALLEY OF LANAITHU TO THE DOLINA OF SU SUERCONE
The itinerary starts in the valley of Lanaithu, at the foot of the well-known
Mount Tiscali. Going eastwards around the mount, we turn into a path, opened
first by local shepherds, then used and provided with big walls by coalmen,
who destroyed the woods of the island from the end of the XIX century to the
Thirties in order to produce coal. Now and then, the path follows the dry gravelly
bed of an old stream. After several uphill hairpin bends we get to the base
of Punta Dorone. From here, the path goes through the valley of the same name,
whose great natural interest is due to the presence of majestic specimen of
Juniper (Juniperus Phoenicea). Now the path goes up to the slopes of the mountain.
The path also crosses thick holm-oak (Quercus Ilex) woods, which, getting hold
of the soil, stole the sunlight to primordial junipers and caused their death.
Once we have followed the path and crossed a little opening in the limestone
rock, we get to the field of Donianicoro, the scene of old and bloody fights
between the shepherds from Dorgali and those from Orgosolo. This spectacular
tableau is watched by mouflons, which, standing next to the remains of nuraghe
Nuragheddu, use to look at visitors with suspicion. Following the path, on the
right, we get to the borders of the huge dolina of Su Suercone, a diameter of
600 metres and a depth of 200 metres. At the bottom of it, majestic holm-oaks,
millenary yews (Taxus Bacata) and (in autumn) bright coloured maple trees (Acer
Monspessulanum) grow and flourish. This is the very heart of Orgosolo's Supramonte.
Level of difficulty: average-high (EE). Interest: botanical, geological, faunal,
archaeological. Duration: one day. Clothes to be worn: comfortable. Trekking
shoes. N.B. Take with you plenty of water, above all in summer (3-4 litres per
person). We recommend to apply to experienced excursion guides.
Text and Photo (Cuile) of Paul Mulas Barbagia No Limits - Gavoi
HOLY WEEK IN ALGHERO
Holy Week in Alghero
is a moment full of 
charm
and genuine popular faith, an unchanged ritual that is repeated all over the
centuries and still p
reserves
the Catalan stamp, a ritual whose peculiar features and origins are jealously
guarded by the city. The Confraternity of Nostra Signora della Misericordia
(= Our Lady of Mercy) was the first to organize the mysteries of Passion, whose
role and tradition have been preserved up till now. During this week, the city
rediscovers its soul, its traditions and the charm of a fascinating old centre.
The latter is also the meeting point of faith and memory: both the awareness
of taking part in a ritual, a real liturgic moment, and the consciousness that
old habits are kept alive. It is a world of prayer, though not superstition-free.
These stories tell about the passing of Purgatory souls on the Earth, but some
are legends about the sea, where (it is thought) King Herod is confined. They
even deal with popular medicine: the Catalan verses of medicina de l'ull
(the oil-and-salt drug used to chase away the negative influence of evil eye
) are still today (orally) handed on, on Good Friday. The Crocifisso della Misericordia
(the Crucifix of Mercy), the Christ carried in procession, is a mysterious work
of art which represents these people very well. It is a most beautiful Spanish
wooden crucifix, loaded on a Spanish boat bound for Genoa that was wrecked off
Porto Conte in 1606. The Christ is kept in the Chiesa della Misericordia. People
pray and sing before Him. By tradition these prayers and songs accompany special
moments of the ceremonies taking place in the cathedral: l'arborament, the raising
of the Cross on Holy Thursday, and the desclavament, Good Friday's deposition,
when four Barons in Syrian costumes lay down Christ from the Cross, a mystery
of strong Catalan influence. The Barons are played by four brethren. It is a
very suggestive ceremony that follows very precise rhythms. During the sermon
(which was given in Catalan in the past, and whose rhythm and verses marked
the ritual's
exact time), the Barons ask the Virgin Mary permiss
ion
to get near the crucifix. They are wearing white gloves, but they are not going
to touch the statue: with the help of white bandages (the symbol of purity),
once they have gone up the ladder leaned on the cross, the Barons carefully
take off the nails and the crown of thorns that hurt His hands and feet. Now
the Christ, His arms along His hips, can be carefully laid down on His bressol
(golden coffin- cradle) and taken out during the night. The Jermans Blancs,
the hooded men from Spanish congregations who come every year in order to honour
the Christ of Alicante, the brethren from Corsica and the confraternities of
most Sardinia, all follow Him in a procession. But, above all, there are people
(with their farols) and singers, who mark the stations of Passion (located in
the most charming corners of the city) with their prayers set to music. Old
Catalan songs, that tell about Alghero's devotion, and the very charming Sardinian-language
"gosos" represent the islanders' homage to Christ. This night performance is
concluded at the Misericordia, where the wooden statue is laid on the tomb (as
written in the Holy Scriptures), waiting for the bells to ring on Easter Sunday:
the bells of Glory and Resurrection. Finally, the meeting with the Virgin Mary
in the square of the Quatre Cantonades.
