July
SASSARI - PORTOTORRES
Sassari
rises on a plateau overlooking the sea, surrounded by fertile and water-full
areas. An agricult
ural
and trading centre, Sassari is the second most populated and important town
in Sardinia. Sassari can boast a sound cultural tradition, a University (founded
in 1617) and an Archaeological-Etnographic Museum with a picture-gallery. There
is little information about the town’s foundation: an evidence of pre-historical
settlements was discovered near Porto Torres. During the Roman Age, the territory
of Sassari was the hinterland of “Turris Libissonis”, which was a Roman colony
and a busy harbour. The present site and the first urban agglomeration date
back to the Middle Ages. The placename “Sassari” was first read in a 1131 document.
In 1135 the word “Tatari” was used (and is still used to name the city, in the
Sardinian language). Sassari’s good position, just in the middle of the Giudicato
of Torres, fostered the city’s process of growth, in fact the inhabitants of
other (abandoned) sites moved to this area in order to escape the dangers of
the coast. The growing economic importance, and the birth of an urban mentality
in a seigniory society were due to the merchants from Pisa and Genoa, who contended
for the town’s monop
oly.
When the two maritime republics declined, people developed a strong communal
feeling, which led Sassari to become a Commune (1294) and to promulgate the
“Statuti sassaresi”. Between the XII and the XIV century, when defence walls
were erected, of which only a small part is left, Sassari was a busy town, with
a considerable scope for development, thanks to the meeting and fusion of islanders
with foreign merchants. Independence lasted very little and Sassari fell under
Aragonese and Spanish rule. As a result, the island had to suffer the island’s
destiny. The town fell into the hands of the Savoiards, and then the Ducal Palace
was built in 1775, that became Town Hall in 1900. Inspired by the rigour of
Piedmontese buildings, the Town Hall houses the Municipal Library, endowed with
ancient books, incunabula, and a copy (1
481)
of Dante’s Divine Comedy enriched with Botticelli’s etchings. There are many
artistical beauties in Sassari: the churches built from XI to XII century were
often re-adapted to various influences. Among the most renowned, let us mention:
Madonna
del Rosario (1633), S. Andrea, S. Antonio (on the high altar, a woodcut retable
and a few paintings by Muru), the church of S. Caterina, and the church of S.
Giacomo, where Sassari’s military company meet. Famous is the Cathedral of S.
Nicola, a mixture of gothic elements and Spanish-baroque ornaments, whose interior
houses the “Museo del Tesoro”. Remarkable are also the church of S. Apollinare,
S. Maria di Betlem (re-adapted by the sassarese architect A. Canu), the church
of S. Agostino and the beautifully sited church of S. Pietro in Silki, with
a XVII century facade and the XIV century Vergine delle Grazie’s worshipped
simulacre. Sassari’s gem is the Rosello fountain (1606), made by genoese artists.
On the coast of the Gulf of Asinara stands Porto Torres, at one time “Turris
Libissonis”, an important harbour of the Roman Age. Raids and invasions caused
the beg
inning
of a long decadence. Later, the town regained its importance by interlacing
trade relations with Pisa and Genoa. During this period, the splendid church
of San Gavino was built, an important example of Romanesque architecture on
the island. The Barbarian raids forced its inhabitants to move to Sassari and
stay there for a few decades. The harbour was protected by a tower overlooking
the Gulf of Asinara. In 1855 Porto Torres was born again and regained its independence
from Sassari, even if the two cities are closely linked even today. The church
of S. Gavino houses the sarcofagi of the local martyrs Gavino, Proto and Gianuario.
In the surroundings of Porto Torres, there are two medieval little churches,
S. Maria di Balai (where the three saints are believed to have been killed)
and S. Gavino a Mare, on the top of a cliff, on the coast, whereto every year
(on 3rd May) the simulacra of the martyrs are carried, on a pilgrimage. In the
built-up areas, the Antiquarium and the Archaeological site are to be found:
the enclosed area comprises the interesting remains of Central Thermae (known
as “Barbarian King’s Palace”) and the Terme Pallotino. In the direction of Sassari,
one finds the megalithic altar of Monte d’Accodi with two menhirs, a round stone
and a sacrificial altar: the only example, in the Mediterranean, of a megalithic
altar similar to the Mesopotamian one. Leaving the town, one can see Stintino,
a renowned seaside resort; Capo Falcone, beautifully sited, with the XVI century
tower of the same name, from which one has the opportunity to admire, among
inlets and pointed rocks, the Strait of Fornelli.
SORSO
- CASTELSARDO
Overlooking the Gulf
of Asinara, the small town of Sorso still preserves (in the old centre)
both the subdi
vision
into several “c
ourts”,
which is typical of Tuscany’s old centres, and the typical limestone/tuff buildings
to be found there. Situated in the Anglona region, between Nurra and Logudoro,
Sorso and its territory bear the traces of human settlements dating from the
Neolithic: the necropolis of Abbiu, with its six hypogean graves; the megalithic
barrier of Monte Cao; and the nuraghic sanctuary of Serra Niedda, on the road
leading to Castelsardo. A Roman villa dating from the I century A. D. is to
be found in the area of Santa Filitica, near Rio Pedras de Fogus, as an evidence
of Roman settlement on the island. In the area of Marritza, on the coast, a
Roman ship was discovered, dating back to the end of the I century/beginning
of the II century A. D. “Romangia” (deriving from the word “Romandia” = curatory)
is the
placename given to the area surrounding the town. Sorso, an agricultural centre
(olive trees, vines, fruit and vegetables) seems to have a rather peculiar language,
a mixture of Sardinian, Spanish and other influences. Among its monuments, let
us mention the Church of Madonna d’Itria (XII century), the Baron’s Palace,
the church of Saint Pantaleo, the Church of Santa Croce (= Holy Cross, XVI century).
Outside
built-up areas, on the road leading to Marina di Sorso, there is the Church
of Madonna “Noli Me Tollere” (= do not take me away) whose interior contains
a statue of Our Lady, represented in an unusual position: Her arms all along
Her body, and the Child leaning against Her left hip. Also, a small chapel was
dedicated to the Madonna “Noli Me Tollere”, situated between the village and
the seaside, where, according to tradition, the statue was found (the feast
takes place every year on 26th May). The coast has most beautiful beaches and
the sea colour varies from deep blue to emerald green. Driving on along the
coast road, passing the beaches of Marina di Sorso and Lu Bagnu (so called because
of an original healthy waterspring), one reaches Castelsardo, which rises
on a promontory, a sheer drop to the sea. Founded by the Doria in 1102 and named
“Castelgenovese”, in 1448 the village was conquered by the Aragonese, who changed
“Castelgenovese” for “Castell’Aragonese”. Finally, in 1769, it became part of
the Sardinian Kingdom and got the present name of Castelsardo. The old centre,
uphill on the rock, still preserves its original charm, with its narrow and
steep lanes, long flights of steps and dark archivolts. In the background, the
intense “blueness” of the sea. Uphill on the rock, the remains of a Medieval
Castle (XII-XIV century):
the tower, the gates and a few rooms with a central pillar and rib vaults. In
Via Mazzini, the Gothic-style Town Hall; the Seminary (1760) with its small
bell gable; the 
church
of Purgatory and the Cathedral of S. Antonio Abate. Near the church, a trachyte
bell tower and a dome tiled with majolica. In the town centre, the church of
S. Maria delle Grazie, built in the Middle Ages and transformed in the XVII
century. The church contains the XIV century crucifix of the Black Christ. From
here, during the Holy Week, on Monday, the procession of Lunissanti starts,
which was introduced in 1200 by the Benedectines of the Abbey “Our Lady of Tergu”.
Rich in symbolic meanings, the procession still preserves the original greatness.
Finally, from the church of S. Antonio one walks down to the viewpoint of “Bastioni
Spagnoli” (= Spanish Bastions), restored in the XVIII century by the Savoiards.
Along the walls, the tower which had to protect the Porta a Mare. Passing Castelsardo,
one reaches Valledoria, born after the War when Lake Casteldoria was created
and watered cultivated fields were introduced. Famous, on the road to Sedini,
is the red trachyte Elephant Rock, which contains a few domus de janas (pre-nuraghic
graves). On the coast, the outlet/pond of Coghinas, near the little church of
S. Pietro a Mare, and a vast sandy shore surrounded by the dunes, reforested
with pine trees, eucalyptus and dwarf palm trees. The white sand is interrupted
by wind-sculpted porphyritic cliffs which stand out against the deep sea.
