October
USSASSAI
Situated
on the slopes of the Arcueri mountains, on the mountainside “Pčrd’e crŕru”,
Ussassai, 783 inhabitants, is the smallest village in the Barbagia di Seulo:
the village, as testified by the “Carte del Dipartimento de Cerdena”, has been
part of this region since 1358. There are 
numerous
archaeological findings in this territory, among which let us mention the domus
de janas (= fairy houses) of Orgěa, Perdňbia, Aurrŕci and Fňrrus, and the nuraghi
of “Joňni”, “Is cocorrňnis”, “Nuraghi”, “Mčla”, “Taccu Addŕi” (the latter three
comprise outlying tombs of giants as well). Ussassai’s most important monument
is the XII century country church of SS. Salvatore, which houses the simulacrum
of S. Gerolamo. Inside the church one can find a characteristic holy water stoup,
an old cross and a wooden zoomorphic sculpture. In the yard, there are 16 “posadas”,
used to accomodate the parishioners during the feast of S. Salvatore (12th September)
and S. Gerolamo (30th September). The village preserves an interesting old centre,
with the house-museum “CASA-MUSEO BEGLIUTI”, in Piazza San Lorenzo, showing
the reconstruction of a typical Ussassai old house furnished with household
and agropastoral tools. Today the old centre is abandoned, but once a year it
comes back to life on the occasion of “SA COJA ANTIGA”, the old traditional
nuptial rite of Ussassai. This peculiar and charming ceremony is preceded by
“SU BENI” (when the bride’s trousseau is carried to the new couple’s house).
All participants wear local traditional costumes. The old centre also houses
the parish church devoted to San Giovanni Battista (29th August), dating back
to 1649. Inside the church, there is a monstrance dating from 1625, and a few
statues of good workmanship. Among the local products, let us mention the olive
oil, the wine, ham and sausages, honey, vegetables and fruit, especially apples.
In fact, the renowned “Battag
lia”
apples are in great demand, the famous “a tremp’orrůbia” (= red-cheeked) apples.
It is said that in 1815, during the Treaty of Vienna celebrations, the apples
from Ussassai were served at the table of the Savoyard Royal family, who found
them so good and special that they ordered the whole output (concerning this,
do mot miss the APPLE FESTIVAL on 29th October). But Ussassai’s real riches
are the forests, covering most of the area (especially the northern and north-eastern
area: Takigeddu, Sa Prančdda, Taccu mannu), its numerous natural springs, some
of which (Milisŕi, Niŕlai, Su tuvu nieddu) are used as a picnic area, and the
“Taccus”: these typical calcareous outcrops, real “castles” whose tops are shaped
by wind and rain, have taken over time a variety of different peculiar forms:
the spired complex of “Su casteddu ‘e Jňni” for instance, with its Dantean profile,
or the “Elephant” of Niala. This latter place is worth visiting thanks to the
spectacular “iron bridge” of “Irtziňni”, along the TRENINO VERDE’s railway stretch
Mandas-Arbatax. In summer, Niala provides a refreshment-point where visitors
can taste the local cooking’s typical dishes: “culurgionis”, the typical mint-flavoured
ravioli, “cocois prenas” filled with potatoes, “strěppiddi” (herbal pizza with
onions and courgettes), and various kinds of roast meat. One can also enjoy
a guided tour to “Sa piscina ‘e su tuvu nieddu”, where the river carved a bridge
out of the rock. As for tourist resorts, there are no hotels in Ussassai, but
a few private houses (whose business activity is run by a cooperative society)
will offer the tourist the best accomodation (common hotel-Bed & Breakfast).
ULASSAI
Ulassai is surrounded by numerous characteristic rock mountains, called “tacchi”:
suggestive plateaux bounded by calcareous mountains whose peaks reach dizzy
heights. Situated in the heart of Ogliastra, 720 metres above
sea level, Ulassai overlooks most of the centre-eastern coast, which is 20 km
away. The territory of Ulassai borders on Jerzu, Gairo, Tertenia, Osini, Perdasdefogu,
Ussassai and Esterzili; it is 90 kilometres from Nuoro, capital of the province,
124 km away from Cagliari and 291 km from Olbia. On 31st December 1999, 1646
inhabitants were registered for assessment. The town can boast a few typical
buildings, such as the arches (an admirable example is represented by the arch
of “Barigau”, which was actually the gate of the town), the arcades and numerous
ancient buildings. Besides the largest oak, holm-oak, holly, arbutus, lentisk,
broom and Mediterranean plant woods, there are also numberless brooks and watercourses,
whose forceful running creates wonderful lakes of clear water interrupted by
dizzy waterfalls. The best of these spots, within this wild and primitive environment,
is undoubtedly the suggestive and admirable “Tisiddu”, a quasi dolomitic, austere
complex overlooking the town. In town, one can admire the Town Hall, dating
from the early twentieth century, and the little church of San Sebastiano, situated
near the “Ba
rigau”
square. About 300 metres from the town, along the road leading to the woods,
one will come across the “Lecorci” waterfalls. It is a rich and most important
hypogean karst treasure, almost unknown and little exploited, with the splendid
caves “Is Lianas” and “Su Murmuri” which are the largest ones in Sardinia. These
“living” caves, with their majestic ever-growing stalactites and stalagmites,
are some of the few living caves in existence. About seven kilometres from the
town there is a large area called “Santa Barbara”, which has represented over
the centuries the town’s religious and cultural alter ego. In the middle of
Santa Barbara, a splendid late-Romanesque country church stands out. Not far,
the highest waterfalls “Lequarci” are to be found, about 100 metres high and
60-70 metres wide. From the archaeological point of view, the territory preserves
numerous traces of man, dating from the earliest times. The megalithic village
in “Seddorrulu” and the nuraghic complex near nuraghe “Cabras” date back to
the third millennium B. C. Besides, many nuraghic monuments such as “Trucculu”,
“Ibbe de su Accili”, “Pranu”, “Nuragheddu”, “Pauli”, “Serroni” and many more
date from the first and second millennium. Whereas in “Girisaili”, “Neuletta”,
“Testerei”, “Cuili de is Iligis”, “Ladas”, “Godditorigius” and “Cuccuru de Maraccus”
one can find the traces of Roman settlements. Variously placed all over the
territory, blending harmoniously with the environment, almost a mirage among
the traditional buildings of the village and the uncontaminated beauty of the
landscape, the important, numerous works of modern art by Maria Lai accompany
and mark the time of these villagers’ everyday life. Such works as “The dinosaur”,
the casts along the road to S. Barbara and the ornaments on the southern outskirts
of the town take their rightful place among the greatest works of the artist.
Most valuable is also the famous “Fountain”, Costantino Nivola’s last work.
This artist, together with Maria Lai, Strazza, Veronesi et al., was able to
represent an admirable artistic transfiguration of the ancient public wash-houses,
which were very common in the village. Among the handicrafts, let us mention
the Coop. Tessile “Su Murmuri”, which combines the peculiar skill of the ancient
weavers with the preservation and exploitation of the area’s great textile handicraft
and cultural heritage. Finally, tourists will be able to enjoy the typical hospitality
of these people and taste Sardinian gastronomical specialities at the hotel
“Su Murmuri”, situated in the main street.
OSINI
If you climb the Ogliastra
mountains, following a most suggestive path among the high “tacc
hi”
rocks, you will come to New Osini, built in the Fifties after the nearby old
village had been flooded. The old village still preserves the charm of its desert
streets, with the typical houses of Ogliastra (whose wooden main doors are still
undamaged) and the XVII century little church. However, Osini is worth visiting
especially for its inestimable natural beauties: deep gorges crossed by fresh
streams; highest peaks whose faces fall in a sheer drop, giving the visitor
special emotions. Let us mention the spectacular Taccu, for instance; Ninara,
among woods, olive trees and sunny vineyards; the area of Is Carcuris-Biddemonti
and the
Osini territories of Salto di Quirra.
The surroundings of Osini are also places of great historical and archaeological interest. In fact, they have been inhabited since the earlier times, as evidenced by the numerous findings one can see there. Let us mention, among the oldest remains, the Domus de Janas of Ninara, dating back to the III millennium B. C. There are also numerous nuraghic settlements, such as Asinalis, Piddeddu, Is Carcuris, Sanu, Sammuccu and Sarmidda. Serbissi,close to an interesting Tomb of Giants, stands out from the others. The typical complex of Serbissi, situated 963 metres high on the mountains on a big two-access natural cave, comprises eight towers rising on a large space surrounded by walls.
The pass of Genneůa dominates the area, one of the few passes that the people from Barbagia could use to enter and sack the coasts of Ogliastra. It is likely that the Romans too exploited this fortified village in order to control this important line of communication between the coast and the mountains. Worth visiting are also the remains of an old building called Su Casteddu, situated on the highest peak of the surrounding mountains: it is probably an old castle, strategically situated next to the unavoidable passageway of Sa Scala de Santu Giorgiu. Unfortunately, there are very few records of the castle’s history, and only few remains are left. Angius thought there could be a Roman garrison in the area, whereas Carta Raspi considered this hypothesis unreliable, believing that the castle was of medieval origins. For certain, the castle’s name is Casteddu, a name which was kept up by the village’s tradition.
The local gastronomy, offering the most renowned specialities of Ogliastra, must not be missed.
JERZU
Jerzu,
an important agricultural mountain centre in the heart of Ogliastra, is scenically
sited on the very steep slopes of Mount Tisuddu and placed in the characteristic
frame of the “tacchi”, impressive calcareous-magnesic plateaux, also called
“toneri”, characterised by jagged outlines, spires, embattled walls, and slopes
dropping vertically downwards, offering the visitor a charming grandeur. Of
great interest is the tacco of Punta Corongiu, the biggest one, from which the
whole area, as far as Gennargentu to the north, can be viewed. Among Jerzu’s
valleys, the most interesting of all is the valley of Riu Pardu, characterised
by steep canyons of clear-water streams. The territory’s soil, so rich in sloping
schist rocks, turned out to be the ideal place for grape growing, being the
grapes skilfully exposed to sunlight. In fact, this land is intensely cultivated
and Jerzu’s fame in the world is due to its valuable wine production, especially
to the famous Cannonau production. The surrounding natural environment is still
unimpaired and represents an ideal place for day-trippers and lovers of nature,
thanks to the beauty of landscape and the rich flora and fauna characterised
by the widespread presence of holm-oaks, cork-oaks, wild olive trees, arbutus,
lentisks, junipers and butcher’s brooms. Among animal species, there are wild
boars and hares. T
he
territory of Jerzu has been inhabited since the ancient times, as evidenced
by a few Domus de Janas and several nuraghi. Among the former, let us mention
Su Senili and Uris, dating back to the III millennium B. C. Whereas a number
of nuraghic findings such as Su Scurius, Sa Omu e’S’Orku, Is Cresinus, S’Ollasteddu,
Perda Pertunda and Sa Ibba Illixi date from the II millennium. There are also
some traces of the Roman domination in S’Arenargiu and Pelaeddu. However, Jerzu’s
most important historical period is the Medieval period, when the town belonged
to the Giudicato of Cagliari in the curatoria of Ogliastra, being Jerzu the
chief town of the curatoria, before Lanusei. Later, the town became part of
the county of Quirra, future marquisate of Centelles. Today, Jerzu’s economy
is chiefly based on grape growing: its vineyards extend on the terraced ridge
of the hills, as far as the coast. Jerzu’s wine production has its own production
centre: the Cantina Sociale of Jerzu, founded in 1950, which collects and works
the Cannonau grapes until a vintage full-bodied red wine, with its typical taste
and smell, is finally made. This wine, labelled a “D. O. C. wine” since 1974,
goes perfectly well with roast meat, roast on the spit, game meat and pecorino
cheese. In Jerzu, first-rate goods are also fruit, vegetables and the local
woodwork production. Jerzu’s gastronomy is valuable, especially the typical
dish is culurgiones, roast pork, lamb and goat. Absolutely not to be missed
among the local festivals is the Wine Festival, taking place on the first Sunday
of August: thanks to its banquets and tasting and the rich programme of cultural
events, this festival is able to draw thousands of visitors.
MONTIFERRU
A COLOURS LANDSCAPE
There is
still a place where the rhythm of nature beats the time, a piece of land that
preserves countryside flavours and sounds. This place can be considered one
of the least contaminated areas in the world. Even the new economy can hardly
penetrate into this place, to shake the present situation of hard times and
farm crisis. Take, for instance, the foodstuff production customs: they have
been handed on from generation to generation, unchanged by the charm of technology.
Even so, the Gal del Montiferru could find a balance between tradition and innovation,
yet preserving the territorial peculiarities of this land. The work they have
done so far allowed eight villages of the area to preserve their authenticity
and treasures while providing an adequate development. This area offers an excellent
extra vergine oil, extraordinary multiflora honey, very good malmsey, and Sardinian-Modican
vintage meat. Sardinian-Modican cows are also used to produce the main product,
the “Casizolu” cheese. Today there are many families who still produce this
homemade typical cheese, so numerous as the ever-increasing consumers of this
product. Ever since it was included in the Arca dei Presidi product selection,
conducted by the Arcigola Slow Food of Italy, the Casizolu cheese has awakened
the interest of the small farms which had stopped the production trying to get
rid of the remaining Sardinian-Modican cows of Montiferru, whereas the red oxen,
exploited on the fields, are still browsing today on the evergreen hi
lls
of Montiferru. The making of Casizolu is a mixture of work and ritual: first,
women prepare the curd, adding some whey, then the paste is made ropy, either
by leaving it on the cooker or by adding hot water, until it is given the shape
of the pear, with a little head of different shapes. No air should get into
the paste and no scum should be left on its surface. The whole cheese is left
to stand in brine for a few hours, then it is hung up for maturing. Sometimes
this procedure has its own fixed time, but it is often the curd which suggests
the rhythms of work. That is why this is mainly a women’s job: because staying
at home they can find out when it is time to start making the cheese. A whole
day on a farm can be an alternative holiday, an opportunity to live close to
nature and Montiferru culture. The working day starts at dawn, when cows and
calves are pastured. In the afternoon they are back, ready to be milked… here
starts the Casizolu “journey”, from here up to the most delicate and demanding
gourmet palates. Casizolu, a ropy-paste cheese made of vaccine milk, can be
eaten either fresh (for its delicate taste) or matured (a six-month seasoning
at least). When matured, this cheese is just a bit spicy and goes well with
full-bodied red wines. Those who are going to visit the Salone del Gusto al
Lingotto in Turin, from Wednesday 25th to Sunday 29th October, can also meet
the Montiferru agents and taste the products in Pavilion 2 Area Istituzionale
and Pavilion 3 Area Presidi; for more information about territory, environment
and oenogastronomical itineraries, tourist resorts and scheduled festivals call
the Gal Montiferru at 0785/369020, netfax 1782260017 or e-mail: galmont@tiscalinet.it
FURTEI
SAN NARCISO
A little country church, the oldest in the village, San Narciso dates back to
the second half of the XIII century; according to oral tradition, it was a parish
church in the past. The façade, very simple and linear, is provided with a bell
gable, a centered portal and several niches which contained round or denticulated
ceramic votive basins. The interior, cosy and little, shows one nave separated
from the side aisle by a range of bearing slabs holding up round-headed arches.
On the last Sunday of October, inside this little church which is part of the
village now, the Feast of San Narciso is celebrated. By tradition, the festival
is supported and guaranteed every year by the municipality, which pays out a
certain amount of money in favour of the church, to support the ritual expenses.
Now the feast has regained its vitality (thanks to a stable group of obreris,
members of the Festival committee), winning the heart of the people of Furtei,
who meet on Saturday evening in order to sing s’arrosarieddu – th
e
rosary sung by alternate choirs, men and women in turn – and to hear the names,
given by the priest, of the new priora, priorisseddasa and andadrixi responsible
for the decorating of the Saints’ simulacres, which are going to be carried
in procession during the year. At the end of the ceremony, is coggius are sung:
old, suggestive chants in honour of San Narciso. Straight afterwards, this intimate,
warm atmosphere of meditation is found in the large square surrounding the church,
which is situated on a higher level than the road surface, where the obrieri,
from their special stands, offer the visitor su biu nou – the first new wine
– which goes well with roast chestnuts, crabs and good cheese! Besides, it is
lovely to taste this deliciousness to the sound of good music! Everything has
been properly arranged: the roast chestnuts are still steaming when offered
to the people, since the big grill is always working! Year by year, the enthusiastic
participation of the inhabitants of Furtei and the people of other villages
has grown more and more. On Sunday, religious celebrations go on: the sung mass,
the procession and su sramoi – a panegyric in honour of the Saint, protector
against the infestation of grasshoppers. At nightfall, after San Narciso is
carried to the parish church, the feast ends with fireworks: a spell for children
and a sweet memory for adults. But the feast has not finished yet: one of the
most appreciated Sardinian folk groups will give us two hours of pleasant entertainment,
greeting us with: attrus annus – ad multos annos ( = many happy returns of the
day)! Prof. Antonino Desogus, with the contribution of Don Ireneo Schirru
